There are few places rivaling Fiji’s reputation as an exotic destination. White sand beaches, crystal blue water, sundrenched islands, lush green mountains and the ever present smiling faces of locals might be the main attraction for a family vacation or the perfect backdrop for a romantic honeymoon. To me, Fiji holds an even more unique quality; the purity of its wild side. Whether you dive Beqa island for one of the most exciting shark dives or the channels of Taveuni where dolphins seek refuge from approaching storms you’ll be sure to notice the locals in their element.

There are over 300 islands in Fiji, not counting the smaller islets, each boasting a large number of dive sites making it hard to claim to know Fiji. This abundance allows for multiple visits each to a new region, island and new dive sites. Fiji’s marine life is as diverse and exotic as its hills and markets. It’s a perfect destination for big fish and macro alike. In a span of a single dive day you can swim with bull sharks, Tiger sharks, white tips, black tips, travellies and countless other indigenous big fish.  Once the chum induced frenzy settles down you’ll notice the blue ribbon eel picking its head beneath you asking for some peace and quiet.

My first visit to Fiji was in 2009. It started at Nadi on the island of Viti-Levu. A scenic bus ride lead to the port city of Suva – departure point for most shark dives around Beqa Island. Followed by another bus bound for Levuka – Fiji’s original Capital. The bus leaves Suva and soon after comes aboard a ferry which will dock on the west coast of Ovalau after about two hours. From there the bus will circumvent the island before its last stop in Levuka. A small and laidback town with a handful of decent budget accommodations and a single dive shop. Large tuna fishing vessels always anchor off shore as they deliver their catch to the local Tuna factory (No worries of smell or other contaminations). At the time of my visit the locals and dive shop operators were combating a starfish epidemic. All divers were asked to assist by “removing” as many star fish as possible and dive briefings pointed to “first-aid” vinegar jars on board next to the emergency oxygen tank. Despite the starfish invasion the reef was one of the healthiest I’ve ever seen. Here is a link to some of my underwater images from Taveuni Island in Fiji

Next Stop Taveuni. On my first visit I stayed with Dolphin Bay Divers, an eco friendly dive resort located on a semi private island across the channel from Taveuni. Eco friendly, rustic and cozy accommodations in huts steps from the shore, hidden from each other by the lush vegetation. Viola and Roland’s attention to detail, starting from the exquisite meals to the immaculately maintained grounds and dive gear rivals many of the bigger resorts while adding a personal touch. Following visits to Taveuni lead me to full service resorts on the island of Taveuni where electricity and water are less scares. Thankfully all dive sites are only few minutes in a small boat from either side of the channel and it’s rare to come across other divers underwater. Most dive sites are relatively shallow with great visibility and the surge prevails over currents. The reef is rich and bursting with some of the most amazing displays of color and abundance. Top side Taveuni offers a lush tropical setting that begs exploring. Cars pass sporadically on the roads and a random afternoon walk up the hill could land you near a flash waterfall or passing through a valley dotted with small houses with fires burning in their backyard. Once discovered by the children playing at the waterfall it’s a matter of time before I was invited in to share a cold drink while the kids marveled at my camera’s LCD screen.

Shark dives near Beqa Island can be the highlight of any visit to Fiji. There are two main dive operations in Suva specializing in Shark conservation and shark feeding dives. It’s a common and successful model; dive operators partner with local chiefs and fisherman creating their own version of a marine park where the reef, its inhabitants and the sharks can flourish. Dive operators on the other hand realize the potential and share the financial rewards with the locals. The Cons and pros (if there are any) for shark feeding and shark tourism in this shark fining world of ours are worthy subject for debate. I can’t help but being torn between the desire to get closer, take photographs, learn everything I can and the question of the footprint each visit and each feeding leaves behind. It was through one of these operations that I first came face to face with a Tiger shark and with each exciting repeat visit my fascination deepened. Cage free shark feedings are abundant wherever sharks and SCUBA divers can come together. In some places the feeding is hidden whereby fish scraps are dumped in the same spot while divers are not around causing the Sharks to more naturally “hang around” the site. Others submerge buckets of fish leftovers from restaurants and fisheries along with the divers. The chum is used as bait for a growing frenzy that soon becomes so chaotic that visibility drops to few feet. The water becomes electrified, buzzing with schools of fish, small and big circling the ring leader, masks and regulators are easily knocked off your face by passing aggressive fish, some posing eminent danger. Small reef white and black tip sharks join the party shortly after. Their movements graceful and slow they take their turn investigating the chum buckets and return to take their position with the circling fish after a treat. Before long the rhythm of thousands of fish circling above and below is broken and things quite down for no reason. All eyes are now on the dive guides all intently looking to the same direction. Bull sharks or Tiger sharks (depends on season) are slowly approaching. A path is opened up in the frenzy for their approach to the feeder holding up a huge tuna head. The tuna head disappears with a swift move. In an effortless move it takes a wide angle turn buzzing no more than 5 feet above our heads and disappears as the curtain of circling fish closes behind it. This dance goes on for the rest of the dive when rigorous clanking on the tanks lets everyone know it’s time for safety stop. Thankfully there is a second dive to follow in the shallower parts of the reef where schools of reef sharks come within arms reach. Here is a link to a gallery of underwater photographs from Cage Free Shark dives in Fiji Beqa Island

Fiji is the perfect destination for Scuba divers, Underwater Photographers and nature enthusiasts. Throughout its remote islands traditional life and harmony with nature have been preserved creating the perfect example of balance between tourism induced development and preservation. If you find yourself in Fiji one day, diving with sharks, picking mangos or scaling a waterfall you might feel speechless even before being invited to a Kava-Kava ceremony. Ride the high tied and clap your hands.